ZEGNA 2023冬季系列：THE OASI OF CASHMERE
「MATTER MATTERS」——精進工藝，前瞻未來
製衣創新始於對布料纖維的不斷探索，只有在纖維編織方法及布料加工中注入新穎巧思，才能真正實現革新。ZEGNA始終致力於打造高品質的奢華布料，亦以品牌價值的源泉——ZEGNA綠洲（Oasi Zegna）為起點，實現垂直整合的營運模式，專注對材質的悉心探索。ZEGNA綠洲讓品牌在傳承經典的同時，亦能堅定暢想未來。
ZEGNA綠洲象徵著對卓越和美的不懈追求。以此命名的Oasi Cashmere系列正是此精神的生動演繹，把精湛技藝展現得淋漓盡致。Oasi Cashmere系列是品牌邁向追本溯源的關鍵進展。ZEGNA承諾，到2024年，此系列中使用的全部羊絨纖維將通過可追溯認證。ZEGNA毛紡廠以及集團直接控股的Bonitto、Dondi、Filati Biagioli Modesto和Tessitura Ubertino等布料工坊藉著Oasi Cashmere系列完美呈獻意大利工藝的寶庫，進一步鞏固ZEGNA在優質面料領域的全球領先地位。
ZEGNA 2023冬季時裝展為賓客們近距離展示Oasi Cashmere系列羊絨布料生產過程中的重要階段。羊絨纖維在空氣箱中漂浮、沈澱，是將羊絨製成精巧布料的關鍵環節。此獨特神奇的工藝手法尋常難以窺見，是生產Oasi Cashmere系列所用布料的必要工序。
ZEGNA藝術總監Alessandro Sartori先生一直致力於融合功能與造型、輪廓與質感，為ZEGNA的剪裁風格注入全新內涵，而對於材質的不竭探索，正是實現此願景的關鍵。「ZEGNA給予我獨特契機探索布料的全新可能，我能參與到布料的整個製作過程，從編織工藝到最終成品，推動各個環節的生產團隊一起大膽挑戰成規。這讓我從取材階段開始，便能專心構思廓形，再逐步推進研製過程，確保每一步都秉承對於創新與卓越的熱忱和追求，最終締造出多元融合的風格語言。」
柔和精準的線條感貫穿ZEGNA 2023冬季系列，俐落廓形剪裁充分詮釋了Alessandro Sartori的獨特設計語言。短飛行員外套、加長大衣、連帽厚外套、束腰外套、Polo衫、羊毛衫和休閒西裝外套均採用無領設計。全新寬鬆麻袋廓形外套的袖長經裁短，可搭配垂落長褲。從噴繪褶皺細節到長款束腰外套上的幾何手繪圖案，以及燈芯絨布料和有褶麂皮材質，均以豎紋構造出和諧的韻律感。
服飾與身體之間的空間同樣至關重要，今季服飾兼具鬆弛感與別緻設計感。立體提花圖案勾勒出寬鬆版型，蓬鬆感外套飾以巧妙的幾何圖案。平織布料擁有毛氈般的觸感，而毛氈布料反而猶如極具彈力的平織布，令貼身的精裁休閒服飾彰顯非凡格調與實用性能。
ZEGNA 2023冬季系列中的Oasi Cashmere布料以厚實的紋理營造出立體層次感，包括雙面提花麥爾登呢、覆以塗層或無塗層的毛圈呢、提花卷毛呢、毛氈、平織布，部分布料更經塗刷處理或飾以刺繡細節。全新系列還採用升級再造的花崗岩紋理#UseTheExisting時尚可持續布料，包括駱馬絨、棉混紡燈芯絨以及觸感細膩的斜紋羊毛布料。
今季設計的色彩運用則以整體柔和的基調巧妙融合令人煥然一新的明快色彩，寧靜灰色搭配曙光黃色，樹葉棕色則綴以漿果紅色和酒紅色。富結構感的手袋、新款 Vetta Triple Stitch™靴子及翻筒靴為整體造型點睛。
此系列中的部分設計源於ZEGNA與洛杉磯奢華生活方式品牌The Elder Statesman之間的靈感碰撞。此特別合作將於2023年2月下旬巴黎時裝周期間正式揭曉，並隨之發佈THE OASI OF CASHMERE主題第二輯新作。ZEGNA與The Elder Statesman秉承相同價值觀及對精湛工藝的熱忱追求，攜手展開創意對話。ZEGNA傳承延續布料製作領域的深厚造詣，並巧妙融蘊The Elder Statesman品牌的豎紋編織工藝，以更廣闊的視角詮釋全新時尚魅力——這一創新之舉，為ZEGNA綠洲精神寫下了生動註腳。
ZEGNA 2023秋冬「THE OASI OF CASHMERE」系列，傳承工藝匠心，探索不止，革新前行。
Photos Credit: Courtesy of ZEGNA
@zegnaofficial #ZEGNAFW23
THE OASI OF CASHMERE
‘Matter Matters’: discover the craft, experience the future.
Innovation in clothes making begins with fibres, and is only truly effective when consideration is paid to how they are woven and how resulting fabrics are treated. This is why matter matters. Our vertically integrated structure originates in Oasi Zegna — the historic home of ZEGNA’s values — and ensures that an exceptional level of care is put at the heart of all we do. Oasi Zegna simultaneously allows us to look back whilst remaining firmly focused on the future.
Oasi Zegna represents a quest for excellence and beauty that is captured succinctly in Oasi Cashmere, the ultimate expression of sartorial excellence. Oasi Cashmere development is central to ZEGNA’s Road to Traceability, and we commit certifying its fibres as fully traceable by 2024. By working with prestigious directly owned mills — including Bonotto, Dondi, Filati Biagioli Modesto, Lanificio Zegna and Tessitura Ubertino — ZEGNA’s position as a world-leading name in the creation of fine fabrics is upheld in Oasi Cashmere, which encapsulates a treasure trove of Italian craftsmanship.
Guests attending the Winter 2023 Fashion Show are invited to experience a crucial phase in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics. Fibres float and precipitate in an air chamber — a key process in their eventual transformation into fine cloth. The magic of this often-unseen process is an intrinsic part of the fabrics used in the Oasi of Cashmere Collection.
Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori keeps expanding the idea of ZEGNA’s sartorial re-set by matching functions with shapes, silhouettes and textures. Materiality is key to his vision: ‘At ZEGNA I have the unprecedented opportunity to create fabrics from weaving through to finishing, challenging our manufacturers, pushing them to explore uncharted waters. This allows me to mould our silhouettes right from the matter, making sure that our commitment to innovation and excellence is rooted in every step of the process. The result is an all-encompassing language that is truly progressive’.
A notion of soft precision runs through the collection and is highlighted in the volumes of neatly designed items; cropped Bomber Jackets, elongated Coats, Anoraks, Blousons, Polo Shirts, Cardigans and Blazers that forego both lapels and collars. New sack-inspired Jackets feature cropped sleeves while trousers are full. Airbrushed folds and drawn geometric patterns over longline Blousons complement corduroy and pleated suedes to imbue the collection with a vertical rhythm.
Space between clothes and the body is as important as texture throughout the collection, which sees ease and a strong sense of design go hand in hand. Ample fits are augmented by 3D jacquards while geometric motifs are brushed onto puffed-up outerwear. Jerseys are felt like, and felt is rendered as if a malleable jersey — allowing for tailored leisurewear to have both presence and performance.
Substantial textures add depth to an array of Oasi Cashmere fabrics, which include double-faced jacquard meltons, coated and uncoated bouclès, frisè jacquards, felts, jerseys and textiles with brushed and needle-punched finishes. The collection also features granite-effect materials crafted from #UseTheExisting™ sources: alpaca, cotton-blend corduroy and tactile wool twill.
The muted palette is unexpectedly punctuated by vivid hues: serene greys meet aurora Yellow while foliage Brown is dashed with bacca Red and wine Red. Looks are finished with structured handbags, the new Vetta Triple Stitch™ and fold-top Boots.
A smattering of outfits feature items from the upcoming partnership with the ‘off kilter’ LA-based luxury lifestyle company, The Elder Statesman — the details of which will be fully disclosed at the end of February during Paris Fashion Week, through the second chapter of THE OASI OF CASHMERE platform. The dialogue behind the collection stems from the idea to offer ZEGNA’s expertise in fabric making to a peer that shares our value and devotion to craft. The collection expands horizons to take on new stylistic paths alongside The Elder Statesman’s ethos of vertical craftsmanship — an idea integral to the Oasi Zegna mindset.
The OASI OF CASHMERE is affirmed as a place of artisanal thought, experimentation and progress.
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