ZEGNA SS23 Collection
ZEGNA 2023夏季系列
传承自ZEGNA绿洲
BORN IN OASI ZEGNA
ZEGNA的前行之路，无不始于ZEGNA绿洲（Oasi ZEGNA），也终将交汇于此。
ZEGNA绿洲是品牌创始人为回馈社区而打造的自然胜境。它不仅仅是社会和环境意识的独特体现，从广泛意义而言更代表了一套清晰的价值观，以促进人与人、机器与自然、过去与现在、传承与创新之间的协调和平衡，秉承始于足下、展望未来的坚定信念。
ZEGNA集团艺术总监Alessandro Sartori对于时装风尚的探索之路也是如此。他认为对功能的新需求会孕育出全新的造型和质感，由此缔造焕然一新的时尚语言。ZEGNA的设计既秉持精湛剪裁，亦着眼于当下。他表示：「剪裁将会朝着怎样的方向发展？如何契合当下生活方式的需求？我的工作正是从这些反思出发，以工艺作为向前拓进的引擎，在保持追求品质、关注细节和尊重材质的同时，积极尝试富轻盈感的设计，并透过不同的材质、处理和装饰细节，注入全新技术内涵，打造出随性而又别具新意的整体造型，开创男装新风尚。在此过程中，我们不断拓展并凝聚出ZEGNA别树一帜的设计语言。」
今季，超群的轻盈感贯穿整个系列。源自工装和运动服的实用设计理念与制服的精准剪裁相结合，打破了沉闷的规矩感，尽显自由无拘的个性魅力，为都市生活带来源自ZEGNA绿洲的轻盈自在气息。新一季以宽松的解构感轮廓为特色，包括和服式外套、轻若无感的大衣以及可作为外套穿着的衬衫和上衣。长裤革新性地采用无骨设计，及挺身的圆筒版型。舒适的百慕达短裤穿着起来行动自如，剪裁合体的休闲外套则采用无领造型。传统的内外界限被大胆颠覆，这很大程度上归功于具高可塑性的针织衫。网纱经不断的技术突破被巧妙转变为织物，打造出高技术且格外轻巧的全新服饰，通透的设计更凸显出轻盈感。毛巾布被剪裁成衬衫外套配搭休闲长裤的套装，采用单色或同色调配色，造型流畅随性。
轻盈感亦来自材质与色彩的搭配。今季所选用的材质包括结构独特的针织面料、高科技桑蚕丝、网纱织物、胶化尼龙、羊毛、毛巾布、胶化皮革及漆面纳帕皮，整体以质朴的大地色调呈现，缀以粉白色、金凤花黄色、灰玫瑰色、蜂蜜色、骆马红棕色、摩卡啡色、核桃啡色、木炭色、硫磺色和黑色。精致的嵌花图案、自然风格的提花细节和丝网印花设计为系列产品更添灵动质感。大容量超轻手袋、厚底乐福鞋以及环绕式眼镜使整体造型更臻灵活。
ZEGNA标志性Triple Stitch™运动鞋在今季不拘一格、兼收并蓄，首次推出由 Alessandro Sartori 与伦敦鞋履创意设计师兼Conceptkicks平台创始人 Mr. Bailey（即Daniel Bailey）联合设计的款式，即将公开发售。两位创意大师的合作基于独特的制鞋工艺，别具一格地呈现奢华材质与先锋技术的精妙融合。
ZEGNA绿洲羊绒（Oasi Cashmere）进一步体现了品牌一直以来的不懈追求。 ZEGNA绿洲是品牌迈向材质可溯源之路的象征，大自然的慷慨馈赠成就了ZEGNA布料始终如一的品质、超卓的触感和层次美感，这也离不开ZEGNA在物料制作中精益求精的灼灼匠心、对自然之美的无限热爱，以及践行负责任发展之道、促进人与自然整体和谐的坚定决心。
全新一季时装展在历史悠久的ZEGNA毛纺厂屋顶层平台上演，并在全球同步直播，通过多台摄像机多角度实时呈现现场精彩瞬间，为在线观众献上比现场观展嘉宾更全面的视角，带来身临其境的视觉盛宴。
ZEGNA SUMMER 2023
BORN IN OASI ZEGNA
Every road and every path, at Zegna, starts from, and brings to, Oasi Zegna.
Envisioned by the founder as a way to give back to the community, Oasi Zegna is not only a unique model of societal and environmental consciousness, but also, and more broadly, a set of values that ultimately foster consistency and promote harmony: between men, engine and nature, past and present, belief and innovation. Always looking ahead while keeping track of our roots.
The journey Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori has taken, a unique grammar that out of new functions generates new shapes and new textures, building up a new language, is equally harmonious. Rooted in sartorial ethic, it is attuned to the here and now. “My work stems from a question: what’s next for tailoring? And for the needs of the lives of today? The idea is to use our craftmanship as a progressive tool, keeping the finesse, the attention to detail, the respect of materials while experimenting with shapes that are light and materials, solutions and finishes that give these shapes a new technicality, to mostly building up a new silhouette where effortless and innovation create a new style for men. In doing so, we keep expanding and solidifying a distinctive language, the one of Zegna,” says Alessandro.
A feeling of extreme lightness runs through the whole collection. An idea of pragmatisms culled from workwear and activewear is morphed with the visual precision of uniform dressing. The result is individual rather than conformist, personal and free rather than constrictive, bringing the lightness and the freedom of the Oasi Zegna as an environment into the city. Shapes are loose and unstructured, barely touching the body: kimono-cut jackets, impalpable coats, shirts and tops that double as outerwear. The ironed pleat disappears from trousers that keep a firm volume and have rounded shapes. Bermuda shorts further free movement, while tailored blazers are freed from the necessity of having a collar. This new language in which inside and outside, underlayer and outer layer are subverted, owes much to the ease of knitwear. Technological research allows turning mesh into fabric, fashioning new families of garments that are technical and extremely light. Transparency affirms the idea of weightlessness. Terry is tailored into suits that match shirt jackets and slacks. The result is a fluid, effortless silhouette made of immediate sums of garments highlighted by the use of monochrome or the layering of similar tones.
Lightness is a matter of materials and colors: engineered knitwear, technical silk, meshes, rubberized nylons, wools, terry, rubberized leather, lacquered nappa come in an earthy palette accented with notes of powder white, butter cup, dusty rose, honey, vicuña, mocha, hickory, charcoal, sulfur and black. Elaborate intarsia, naturalistic jacquards and screen-prints give movement to otherwise solid surfaces. Extra light, capacious bags, massive soled loafers and transparent wraparound glasses finish the looks.
The iconic Triple Stitch™ Sneaker, a global success for the Maison, expands its borders and turns into a true creative platform debuting with an inedited version of the shoe, designed by Alessandro Sartori with Daniel Bailey, the London based designer footwear innovator, founder of Conceptkicks, better known as Mr. Bailey. The collaboration between the two creatives, based on a unique footwear crafting process, is an unparalleled experiment where luxury materials match perfectly with up-to-date accomplishments.
Zegna’s all-encompassing ethos is moreover embodied in Oasi Cashmere: Oasi Zegna becomes an emblem to representing the brand road to traceability as far as its values give consistency, tactile materiality and deep to fabrics grown and woven out of a passion for excellence and love for the beauty of nature and the overall harmony that only a responsible development can guarantee.
The show will be presented IRL on the rooftop of the historical Lanificio Zegna wool mill, and simultaneously streamed globally, offering the audience unprecedented access to the catwalk action through multiple cameras allowing different simultaneous views. The idea is to offer something not even the physical audience can have, making the online view as engaging as the real show.
#ZEGNA @zegnaofficial #fashion #SS23
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