ZEGNA SS23 Collection
ZEGNA 2023夏季系列
傳承自ZEGNA綠洲
BORN IN OASI ZEGNA
ZEGNA的前行之路，無不始於ZEGNA綠洲（Oasi ZEGNA），也終將交匯於此。
ZEGNA綠洲是品牌創始人為回饋社區而打造的自然勝境。它不僅僅是社會和環境意識的獨特體現，從廣泛意義而言更代表了一套清晰的價值觀，以促進人與人、機器與自然、過去與現在、傳承與創新之間的協調和平衡，秉承始於足下、展望未來的堅定信念。
ZEGNA集團藝術總監Alessandro Sartori對於時裝風尚的探索之路也是如此。他認為對功能的新需求會孕育出全新的造型和質感，由此締造煥然一新的時尚語言。ZEGNA的設計既秉持精湛剪裁，亦著眼於當下。他表示：「剪裁將會朝著怎樣的方向發展？如何契合當下生活方式的需求？我的工作正是從這些反思出發，以工藝作為向前拓進的引擎，在保持追求品質、關注細節和尊重材質的同時，積極嘗試富輕盈感的設計，並透過不同的材質、處理和裝飾細節，注入全新技術內涵，打造出隨性而又別具新意的整體造型，開創男裝新風尚。在此過程中，我們不斷拓展並凝聚出ZEGNA別樹一幟的設計語言。」
今季，超群的輕盈感貫穿整個系列。源自工裝和運動服的實用設計理念與制服的精準剪裁相結合，打破了沉悶的規矩感，盡顯自由無拘的個性魅力，為都市生活帶來源自ZEGNA綠洲的輕盈自在氣息。新一季以寬鬆的解構感輪廓為特色，包括和服式外套、輕若無感的大衣以及可作為外套穿著的襯衫和上衣。長褲革新性地採用無骨設計，及挺身的圓筒版型。舒適的百慕達短褲穿著起來行動自如，剪裁合體的休閒外套則採用無領造型。傳統的內外界限被大膽顛覆，這很大程度上歸功於具高可塑性的針織衫。網紗經不斷的技術突破被巧妙轉變為織物，打造出高技術且格外輕巧的全新服飾，通透的設計更凸顯出輕盈感。毛巾布被剪裁成襯衫外套配搭休閒長褲的套裝，採用單色或同色調配色，造型流暢隨性。
輕盈感亦來自材質與色彩的搭配。今季所選用的材質包括結構獨特的針織面料、高科技桑蠶絲、網紗織物、膠化尼龍、羊毛、毛巾布、膠化皮革及漆面納帕皮，整體以質樸的大地色調呈現，綴以粉白色、金鳳花黃色、灰玫瑰色、蜂蜜色、駱馬紅棕色、摩卡啡色、核桃啡色、木炭色、硫磺色和黑色。精緻的嵌花圖案、自然風格的提花細節和絲網印花設計為系列產品更添靈動質感。大容量超輕手袋、厚底樂福鞋以及環繞式眼鏡使整體造型更臻靈活。
ZEGNA標誌性Triple Stitch™運動鞋在今季不拘一格、兼收並蓄，首次推出由 Alessandro Sartori 與倫敦鞋履創意設計師兼Conceptkicks平台創始人 Mr. Bailey（即Daniel Bailey）聯合設計的款式，即將公開發售。兩位創意大師的合作基於獨特的製鞋工藝，別具一格地呈現奢華材質與先鋒技術的精妙融合。
ZEGNA綠洲羊絨（Oasi Cashmere）進一步體現了品牌一直以來的不懈追求。 ZEGNA綠洲是品牌邁向材質可溯源之路的象徵，大自然的慷慨饋贈成就了ZEGNA布料始終如一的品質、超卓的觸感和層次美感，這也離不開ZEGNA在物料製作中精益求精的灼灼匠心、對自然之美的無限熱愛，以及踐行負責任發展之道、促進人與自然整體和諧的堅定決心。
全新一季時裝展在歷史悠久的ZEGNA毛紡廠屋頂層平台上演，並在全球同步直播，通過多台攝像機多角度實時呈現現場精彩瞬間，為在線觀眾獻上比現場觀展嘉賓更全面的視角，帶來身臨其境的視覺盛宴。
ZEGNA SUMMER 2023
BORN IN OASI ZEGNA
Every road and every path, at Zegna, starts from, and brings to, Oasi Zegna.
Envisioned by the founder as a way to give back to the community, Oasi Zegna is not only a unique model of societal and environmental consciousness, but also, and more broadly, a set of values that ultimately foster consistency and promote harmony: between men, engine and nature, past and present, belief and innovation. Always looking ahead while keeping track of our roots.
The journey Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori has taken, a unique grammar that out of new functions generates new shapes and new textures, building up a new language, is equally harmonious. Rooted in sartorial ethic, it is attuned to the here and now. “My work stems from a question: what’s next for tailoring? And for the needs of the lives of today? The idea is to use our craftmanship as a progressive tool, keeping the finesse, the attention to detail, the respect of materials while experimenting with shapes that are light and materials, solutions and finishes that give these shapes a new technicality, to mostly building up a new silhouette where effortless and innovation create a new style for men. In doing so, we keep expanding and solidifying a distinctive language, the one of Zegna,” says Alessandro.
A feeling of extreme lightness runs through the whole collection. An idea of pragmatisms culled from workwear and activewear is morphed with the visual precision of uniform dressing. The result is individual rather than conformist, personal and free rather than constrictive, bringing the lightness and the freedom of the Oasi Zegna as an environment into the city. Shapes are loose and unstructured, barely touching the body: kimono-cut jackets, impalpable coats, shirts and tops that double as outerwear. The ironed pleat disappears from trousers that keep a firm volume and have rounded shapes. Bermuda shorts further free movement, while tailored blazers are freed from the necessity of having a collar. This new language in which inside and outside, underlayer and outer layer are subverted, owes much to the ease of knitwear. Technological research allows turning mesh into fabric, fashioning new families of garments that are technical and extremely light. Transparency affirms the idea of weightlessness. Terry is tailored into suits that match shirt jackets and slacks. The result is a fluid, effortless silhouette made of immediate sums of garments highlighted by the use of monochrome or the layering of similar tones.
Lightness is a matter of materials and colors: engineered knitwear, technical silk, meshes, rubberized nylons, wools, terry, rubberized leather, lacquered nappa come in an earthy palette accented with notes of powder white, butter cup, dusty rose, honey, vicuña, mocha, hickory, charcoal, sulfur and black. Elaborate intarsia, naturalistic jacquards and screen-prints give movement to otherwise solid surfaces. Extra light, capacious bags, massive soled loafers and transparent wraparound glasses finish the looks.
The iconic Triple Stitch™ Sneaker, a global success for the Maison, expands its borders and turns into a true creative platform debuting with an inedited version of the shoe, designed by Alessandro Sartori with Daniel Bailey, the London based designer footwear innovator, founder of Conceptkicks, better known as Mr. Bailey. The collaboration between the two creatives, based on a unique footwear crafting process, is an unparalleled experiment where luxury materials match perfectly with up-to-date accomplishments.
Zegna’s all-encompassing ethos is moreover embodied in Oasi Cashmere: Oasi Zegna becomes an emblem to representing the brand road to traceability as far as its values give consistency, tactile materiality and deep to fabrics grown and woven out of a passion for excellence and love for the beauty of nature and the overall harmony that only a responsible development can guarantee.
The show will be presented IRL on the rooftop of the historical Lanificio Zegna wool mill, and simultaneously streamed globally, offering the audience unprecedented access to the catwalk action through multiple cameras allowing different simultaneous views. The idea is to offer something not even the physical audience can have, making the online view as engaging as the real show.
#ZEGNA @zegnaofficial #fashion #SS23
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