ZEGNA 2023冬季系列：THE OASI OF CASHMERE
「MATTER MATTERS」——精进工艺，前瞻未来
制衣创新始于对布料纤维的不断探索，只有在纤维编织方法及布料加工中注入新颖巧思，才能真正实现革新。ZEGNA始终致力于打造高品质的奢华布料，亦以品牌价值的源泉——ZEGNA绿洲（Oasi Zegna）为起点，实现垂直整合的营运模式，专注对材质的悉心探索。ZEGNA绿洲让品牌在传承经典的同时，亦能坚定畅想未来。
ZEGNA绿洲象征著对卓越和美的不懈追求。以此命名的Oasi Cashmere系列正是此精神的生动演绎，把精湛技艺展现得淋漓尽致。Oasi Cashmere系列是品牌迈向追本溯源的关键进展。ZEGNA承诺，到2024年，此系列中使用的全部羊绒纤维将通过可追溯认证。ZEGNA毛纺厂以及集团直接控股的Bonitto、Dondi、Filati Biagioli Modesto和Tessitura Ubertino等布料工坊借着Oasi Cashmere系列完美呈献意大利工艺的宝库，进一步巩固ZEGNA在优质面料领域的全球领先地位。
ZEGNA 2023冬季时装展为宾客们近距离展示Oasi Cashmere系列羊绒布料生产过程中的重要阶段。羊绒纤维在空气箱中漂浮、沈淀，是将羊绒制成精巧布料的关键环节。此独特神奇的工艺手法寻常难以窥见，是生产Oasi Cashmere系列所用布料的必要工序。
ZEGNA艺术总监Alessandro Sartori先生一直致力于融合功能与造型、轮廓与质感，为ZEGNA的剪裁风格注入全新内涵，而对于材质的不竭探索，正是实现此愿景的关键。「ZEGNA给予我独特契机探索布料的全新可能，我能参与到布料的整个制作过程，从编织工艺到最终成品，推动各个环节的生产团队一起大胆挑战成规。这让我从取材阶段开始，便能专心构思廓形，再逐步推进研制过程，确保每一步都秉承对于创新与卓越的热忱和追求，最终缔造出多元融合的风格语言。」
柔和精准的线条感贯穿ZEGNA 2023冬季系列，俐落廓形剪裁充分诠释了Alessandro Sartori的独特设计语言。短飞行员外套、加长大衣、连帽厚外套、束腰外套、Polo衫、羊毛衫和休闲西装外套均采用无领设计。全新宽松麻袋廓形外套的袖长经裁短，可搭配垂落长裤。从喷绘褶皱细节到长款束腰外套上的几何手绘图案，以及灯芯绒布料和有褶麂皮材质，均以竖纹构造出和谐的韵律感。
服饰与身体之间的空间同样至关重要，今季服饰兼具松弛感与别致设计感。立体提花图案勾勒出宽松版型，蓬松感外套饰以巧妙的几何图案。平织布料拥有毛毡般的触感，而毛毡布料反而犹如极具弹力的平织布，令贴身的精裁休闲服饰彰显非凡格调与实用性能。
ZEGNA 2023冬季系列中的Oasi Cashmere布料以厚实的纹理营造出立体层次感，包括双面提花麦尔登呢、覆以涂层或无涂层的毛圈呢、提花卷毛呢、毛毡、平织布，部分布料更经涂刷处理或饰以刺绣细节。全新系列还采用升级再造的花岗岩纹理#UseTheExisting时尚可持续布料，包括骆马绒、棉混纺灯芯绒以及触感细腻的斜纹羊毛布料。
今季设计的色彩运用则以整体柔和的基调巧妙融合令人焕然一新的明快色彩，宁静灰色搭配曙光黄色，树叶棕色则缀以浆果红色和酒红色。富结构感的手袋、新款 Vetta Triple Stitch™靴子及翻筒靴为整体造型点睛。
此系列中的部分设计源于ZEGNA与洛杉矶奢华生活方式品牌The Elder Statesman之间的灵感碰撞。此特别合作将于2023年2月下旬巴黎时装周期间正式揭晓，并随之发布THE OASI OF CASHMERE主题第二辑新作。ZEGNA与The Elder Statesman秉承相同价值观及对精湛工艺的热忱追求，携手展开创意对话。ZEGNA传承延续布料制作领域的深厚造诣，并巧妙融蕴The Elder Statesman品牌的竖纹编织工艺，以更广阔的视角诠释全新时尚魅力——这一创新之举，为ZEGNA绿洲精神写下了生动注脚。
ZEGNA 2023秋冬「THE OASI OF CASHMERE」系列，传承工艺匠心，探索不止，革新前行。
Photos Credit: Courtesy of ZEGNA
@zegnaofficial #ZEGNAFW23
THE OASI OF CASHMERE
‘Matter Matters’: discover the craft, experience the future.
Innovation in clothes making begins with fibres, and is only truly effective when consideration is paid to how they are woven and how resulting fabrics are treated. This is why matter matters. Our vertically integrated structure originates in Oasi Zegna — the historic home of ZEGNA’s values — and ensures that an exceptional level of care is put at the heart of all we do. Oasi Zegna simultaneously allows us to look back whilst remaining firmly focused on the future.
Oasi Zegna represents a quest for excellence and beauty that is captured succinctly in Oasi Cashmere, the ultimate expression of sartorial excellence. Oasi Cashmere development is central to ZEGNA’s Road to Traceability, and we commit certifying its fibres as fully traceable by 2024. By working with prestigious directly owned mills — including Bonotto, Dondi, Filati Biagioli Modesto, Lanificio Zegna and Tessitura Ubertino — ZEGNA’s position as a world-leading name in the creation of fine fabrics is upheld in Oasi Cashmere, which encapsulates a treasure trove of Italian craftsmanship.
Guests attending the Winter 2023 Fashion Show are invited to experience a crucial phase in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics. Fibres float and precipitate in an air chamber — a key process in their eventual transformation into fine cloth. The magic of this often-unseen process is an intrinsic part of the fabrics used in the Oasi of Cashmere Collection.
Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori keeps expanding the idea of ZEGNA’s sartorial re-set by matching functions with shapes, silhouettes and textures. Materiality is key to his vision: ‘At ZEGNA I have the unprecedented opportunity to create fabrics from weaving through to finishing, challenging our manufacturers, pushing them to explore uncharted waters. This allows me to mould our silhouettes right from the matter, making sure that our commitment to innovation and excellence is rooted in every step of the process. The result is an all-encompassing language that is truly progressive’.
A notion of soft precision runs through the collection and is highlighted in the volumes of neatly designed items; cropped Bomber Jackets, elongated Coats, Anoraks, Blousons, Polo Shirts, Cardigans and Blazers that forego both lapels and collars. New sack-inspired Jackets feature cropped sleeves while trousers are full. Airbrushed folds and drawn geometric patterns over longline Blousons complement corduroy and pleated suedes to imbue the collection with a vertical rhythm.
Space between clothes and the body is as important as texture throughout the collection, which sees ease and a strong sense of design go hand in hand. Ample fits are augmented by 3D jacquards while geometric motifs are brushed onto puffed-up outerwear. Jerseys are felt like, and felt is rendered as if a malleable jersey — allowing for tailored leisurewear to have both presence and performance.
Substantial textures add depth to an array of Oasi Cashmere fabrics, which include double-faced jacquard meltons, coated and uncoated bouclès, frisè jacquards, felts, jerseys and textiles with brushed and needle-punched finishes. The collection also features granite-effect materials crafted from #UseTheExisting™ sources: alpaca, cotton-blend corduroy and tactile wool twill.
The muted palette is unexpectedly punctuated by vivid hues: serene greys meet aurora Yellow while foliage Brown is dashed with bacca Red and wine Red. Looks are finished with structured handbags, the new Vetta Triple Stitch™ and fold-top Boots.
A smattering of outfits feature items from the upcoming partnership with the ‘off kilter’ LA-based luxury lifestyle company, The Elder Statesman — the details of which will be fully disclosed at the end of February during Paris Fashion Week, through the second chapter of THE OASI OF CASHMERE platform. The dialogue behind the collection stems from the idea to offer ZEGNA’s expertise in fabric making to a peer that shares our value and devotion to craft. The collection expands horizons to take on new stylistic paths alongside The Elder Statesman’s ethos of vertical craftsmanship — an idea integral to the Oasi Zegna mindset.
The OASI OF CASHMERE is affirmed as a place of artisanal thought, experimentation and progress.
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